I have a 1200 watt Power jack grid tie inverter. It is intended for a 12v wind/solar setup but it says it needs a minimum of 14 volts and a maximum of 28 volts. My assumption is that a 24…
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I have a pet peeve, and it goes like this: Consumer buys a product that is battery based. When the batteries die, rather than replace the batteries the institution junks the complete UPS system…
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Sexy One25 says:
April 11, 2015 at 12:24 am (UTC 0)
well if the code enforcement people get there in time before he blows the
house up, or the block possibly. He said it himself, he doesnt know what
he’s doing. Its good that he’s at least asking people who do though.
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 12:54 am (UTC 0)
you better not tell your power company your not a certified electrician and
you done your own work they will come out and you will have to pay a fine
you have to pay a grid connection fee
and have a pvolic certified electrican and a solor panel installer to do
all the work thers a code inforcement law
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 12:55 am (UTC 0)
the power company police radaided my back yard because they thought i was
steeling there electricity
Stephen Denton says:
April 11, 2015 at 1:03 am (UTC 0)
Okay you are pretty close the batteries are the heart of your solar
everything will run on batteries. the charge controller will charge your
batteries. if you make a 24v battery bank you will need a 24v charge
controller in order to charge 24 volts you will need 130% of 24 volts.
around 28 volts to charge
Car batteries not that great for solar tho you will not get much use out of
then due to not being able to discharge more then 15-20 times. If the
battery has a CCA – Cold Cranking amps dont use it. Y? because they are
used for alot of amperage all at once and then to complete a circuit. you
want a battery that has a Amp hour rating. most are 75 amps / 180-320 hours
other than that it looks okay
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 1:51 am (UTC 0)
20 x 300 watt reginna solor panels will produce 28 amps connecting threw
a dueal pole braker and wired directly to your power braker box and will
produse 10.000 kw hour a day
i used about 300 kw a hr
Michael Persico says:
April 11, 2015 at 2:42 am (UTC 0)
bad idea wire all parallel leave it 12 volts hook up 12 volt charger make
sure you have right amount of amps or you will burn it up
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 2:46 am (UTC 0)
and when the internal switch in the inverter see;s 120 volts it starts
produceing electricity from your solar panels
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 3:19 am (UTC 0)
i found this out when my electric bill was showing a negitive bill all the
time so they started estamatting my utility bill
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 4:12 am (UTC 0)
and was fixen to take me to the cleaners threw there judicial system
TheCip1977 says:
April 11, 2015 at 4:44 am (UTC 0)
Your inverter works beetwen 14-28v , so yes technicaly you can hook up the
bateries to the inverter ; in the very next moment when you’ll start the
inverter the voltage will drop a bit so you won’t have 24v anymore but
because of the fully charge bateries, they are able to supply high
amperage for a period of time , that amperage , if is sustained for as much
as the bateries can , will heat up your inverter and that will cause a very
big wear of the inverter and possible to burn it out ( unless you make a
REAL GOOD cooling device for it because the HEAT is what will actualy
distroy the inverter not the amperage );also you must check before you do
this the maximum amp which inverter can manage ; is pointless to charge it
as much as it says on its labels so if you install a amp reductor between
the bateries and inverter to stay somewhere at 60% of its peak you can do
that until you will drain the bateries and won’t be any problem in this
way you can go ahead .
About the second question : yes you can but nothing will happen , it
won’t charge anything
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 4:57 am (UTC 0)
with grid tie inverters we dont need a battery bank you just use solar
panels that connect to your inverter and pluge your inverter into your wall
socket
Elliot Hunt says:
April 11, 2015 at 5:47 am (UTC 0)
You cant charge half the bank becuse it would get unbalanced. I guess the
inverter would take 24v thogh
Bruce Baumgartner says:
April 11, 2015 at 6:13 am (UTC 0)
the power jack I got was bad out of box and I can not get them to fix or
replace. I would buy an other brand. I would not buy power jack. buy an
other brand if they do not fix bad out of box good luck getting service
later. I would not buy power jack and look out sold under other name look
and the case and stay a way!
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 7:10 am (UTC 0)
and they posted a stop work order on my front door
stanley flanagin says:
April 11, 2015 at 7:33 am (UTC 0)
one other thing to mention that it dosnt effect your 220 volt side of your
electricity so when you use 220 volts your meter will spine in the normal
direction also they installed a smart meter on my house and after that my
meter wont run backwards
thats why the electric companys wont you to switch to smart meters they are
prepairing for the upcomming battle with people installing solar panels
and not useing there electricity so were screwed
The Guy That Does Everything Wrong says:
April 11, 2015 at 8:22 am (UTC 0)
Kricotas, don’t put a 12v inverter on that 24v supply. Either get a 24v
inverter or you can try a 24v DC to 12v DC step down transformer.
kricotas says:
April 11, 2015 at 9:17 am (UTC 0)
question? im going to install a wind turbine 650 watts is for 24v but my
power inverter is 12v shuld i buy a 24 v inverter? or how can i converter
the out put 24v to 12v input?
Prancinglion1 says:
April 11, 2015 at 10:02 am (UTC 0)
Sooo…. What happened to your 1200Watt inverter after you hooked it up to
the 24V battery bank? My little 360Watt Chi-com inverter gave up the ghost
after one year, only running 200Watts Max. Very interested in how your
1200Watt made out B4 I buy one.
mustwhatch says:
April 11, 2015 at 10:26 am (UTC 0)
wow to ll of the other comments 1st if the bat pack is all hooked together
at 24v then ur battt charger will only charge a 12v threw out all 4 batts u
should hook up all 4 batts to get 12v this will put less strain on inverter
and u will have a longer run time. .and u should set the batts on wood or
in a container concret is bad for batts it kills the cells over time
Rick Laviolette says:
April 11, 2015 at 10:41 am (UTC 0)
If the inverter drops below 14 volts, it shuts off. this would inherently
protect the system.
onceANexile says:
April 11, 2015 at 10:56 am (UTC 0)
To charge a 12 volt battery, you have to have 14.04 volts input. Just like
your car, or truck!
aron john says:
April 11, 2015 at 11:34 am (UTC 0)
you should probably move that bike out of the way……
islaguy100 says:
April 11, 2015 at 12:29 pm (UTC 0)
i would say yes to hooking 24 volts to your 14 to 28 vold grid tie
inverter. i had a 300 watt power jack i would drain batterys with, it
lasted me a year running it about 3 times a week like that. i thought it
would blow out way before. it always a risk you’ll blow something out in
it, and it is made in china. as for the charge controller, i would think
that it would not work. the charge controller would see the battery as full
and either dump or close the charge connection.
Leon Evans says:
April 11, 2015 at 1:10 pm (UTC 0)
And yes you can charge one set of the batteries, the ones in parallel, and
then the other set, but darn, why not set the system up as just 12 volts?
As close as you have the batteries to the inverter, and with small gauge
wire, you will not have any losses. Otherwise perhaps you could set your
solar panels up in series to produce 24 volts. Anyway, good luck.
lulu mnl says:
April 11, 2015 at 1:35 pm (UTC 0)
Hi, I think its a no normal condition, but its a good solution.For example,
first a wind turbine charge the bank of batteries, and then only for 1/2h
at day inject the current of batteries to grid with a GTI.This is a good
idea if you don’t want make another paralel electrical installation.
KyleCarrington says:
April 11, 2015 at 2:10 pm (UTC 0)
I purposely chose a box that would fit a 24 series deep cycle, and in the
meantime I’ll burn out these SLA’s cause they are free. If you find a case
that’s big enough for 2 6’s, well, you can get your name in at local golf
courses, they give up on bats in the spring, sulphated over the winter.
They, as a pair, are heavy though!
slider2732 says:
April 11, 2015 at 2:17 pm (UTC 0)
Very valid rant in the description and a fascinating RV project..learned a
lot 🙂 Re PCB’s: The leftover PCB’s are flat and on some units quite the
size. Can take any remaining actual junk parts off with a good strong saw.
One use is for projects box build material, shed roof repair strengthening,
stuff like that. Sheets of fiberglass in a way.
KyleCarrington says:
April 11, 2015 at 2:38 pm (UTC 0)
I think with 4 x 7ah I could possibly get one movie in. On this setup,
anyway. If you have a small portable DVD/screen combo – it’s a sinch.
Mike Miller says:
April 11, 2015 at 2:59 pm (UTC 0)
Thank you very much. Great info on many topics and resources.
KyleCarrington says:
April 11, 2015 at 3:58 pm (UTC 0)
The reason joule ringer and joule thief look better, on a meter, is the
meter is lying in regards to the input, it is a triangular wave, ramped
input which cannot be read properly with even an RMS meter, because A. the
frequency of the input is high enough that the upper harmonics of that
frequency become “out of range” of the meter. Therefore, the meter design
to look at either linear DC, or 50-60 Hz AC, is fed high frequency pulsed
DC in a triangular form. They simply lie, this I have proved.
KyleCarrington says:
April 11, 2015 at 4:48 pm (UTC 0)
cool tips, thanks, about to do a video on that oscillator you sent me, it
truly is an amazing little rig, the one that is “human powered” – very nice
work Mark.
KyleCarrington says:
April 11, 2015 at 5:25 pm (UTC 0)
Cheers man! Look up “Luminous efficacy” on wiki, great explanation. One
also has to consider the source. If your source is solar, and you stick
with straight DC – LEDs CAN win, if the argument is no conversion + life
expectancy. If you are running a lamp “on grid” though, the opposite holds
true as you need to convert to DC. Best way to run LEDs is either a
constant potential / constant current switching mode circuit – beats any
joule ringer / joule thief hands down.
Magneticitist says:
April 11, 2015 at 5:56 pm (UTC 0)
I want to make one of those battery banks in a case with an attached mini
inverter so i can watch tv and stuff in outages lol. I wonder if i could
get by with 3 or 4 of those small 7ah SLAs, or if just a decent deep cycle
is better.
MrAnguswangus says:
April 11, 2015 at 6:01 pm (UTC 0)
Thanks for the info on lumens and leds. I didn’t know that, but, once I
think about it….it makes sense….I think…lol. Great vid as always!